Succulent Kebabs, Fragrant Biryani and So Much More: A Historic Indian City Gains Recognition on UNESCO's Gastronomy List.
Tempting kebabs, aromatic biryani, and fluffy, cloud-like desserts.
The northern Indian city of Lucknow has long been a dream destination for epicures, with residents and travelers alike celebrating its exquisite cuisine.
A Global Honor
Last month, UNESCO honored it as a UNESCO Creative City for Gastronomy – placing it on a exclusive roster of world cities and kindling hopes that it will highlight Lucknow's sublime food. With this title, it becomes part of a international community of cities urban centers across more than 100 countries focused on promoting "creativity as a catalyst of sustainable urban development".
The honor "stands as proof of its centuries-old gastronomic legacy and dynamic culinary scene," as noted by a representative from Unesco's Regional Office for South Asia.
Lucknow is just the second Indian city – following Hyderabad, which was chosen in 2019 – to find a place in this prestigious list of 70 cities worldwide.
A Metropolis Shaped by Cuisine
The accolade for this historic city is no surprise to its locals or passionate food lovers. Many share the opinion that it is "a recognition that was delayed".
With the UNESCO recognition, this cherished, lively, and eclectic city – the administrative center of India's most populous state – is now in the global gaze for what has always characterized its soul: an profound love for food.
"'The day's menu, how will it be cooked' is a ongoing dialogue from waking up until going to bed in most homes," explains a local cultural expert. "And you are truly evaluated by the excellence of food that comes out of your kitchen."
A Heritage of Nawabi Cuisine
The City of the Nawabs – as it's popularly called after its 18th and 19th-century opulent Muslim rulers – is renowned for its tender kebabs and a unique take on biryani that were created, perfected, and elevated to extraordinary levels in their imperial kitchens.
These kitchens of the nobility were centers of food experimentation, fusing Persian and local Indian styles to create what became known as the food of Awadh.
It was in that period that Lucknow's renowned kebabs were developed. Legend has it that the galouti kebab was invented to cater to an ageing nawab who had no longer had his teeth. His chefs ground the meat with papaya, saffron, and a blend of spices and made it so silky that it needed no chewing.
But perhaps the biggest contribution of the cooks of Awadh was the slow-cook Dum pukht technique, where food is cooked on a low, leisurely heat, with the pot's lid securely sealed with dough.
A Diverse Culinary Landscape
In addition to the obvious kebabs and biryani, the culinary masters also built up a repertoire of dishes that included kormas (creamy curries), sheermal (saffron-infused flatbread), and shahi tukda (a sweet bread pudding).
However, Lucknow is not just about kebabs and biryani – the region is also a haven for vegetarians.
The local traditionally vegetarian community's cuisine doesn't just showcases seasonal produce but also provides the city its exquisitely crafted Indian desserts, sweets, and unique street food, like chaat – spicy fried snacks.
Time-Tested Food Joints
Nearly on every corner, there are little shops and stalls – little-known delights that are immensely favored by the locals.
In the city center of Hazratganj, huge crowds start milling around from 5 am at a famous tea stall to get a steaming cup of spiced tea with milk, presented in clay glasses, along with incredibly soft buns covered in hand-churned white butter.
In the morning, one can visit a no-frills joint situated in the old city area of Aminabad. Almost 150 years after it was established, the place is still in great demand for its freshly fried kachoris (fried bread stuffed with lentils) and jalebis (crispy, syrup-soaked sweets).
Ensuring Legacy Continues
The city also presents special seasonal delights, such as makkhan malai, a cloud-like dessert found in the winter. The process of making it is intricate and complicated. The artisan beats the milk and then leaves it out at night, allowing the dew to give it its amazing light consistency.
On crisp mornings, street vendors line up in historic neighborhoods like Aminabad and Chowk. Some however express concern that their younger generation do not want to learn the art.
A celebrity chef from Lucknow has noted that the city's rich food legacy positions it at the very pinnacle of the Indian street food experience. The real value from the UNESCO recognition, it is believed, will be realized only if Lucknow can now generate interest about its under-the-radar eateries.
Every dish in Lucknow has a narrative – shaped by multi-generational food businesses, from humble street carts to busy restaurants, and guarded family recipes.
The international acclaim, it is hoped, will inspire more people around the world to learn these stories and experience the city to savour the culinary delights of Lucknow.